Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Driving Namibia: Three women, two weeks, one country

Once again, I'm a few weeks late with the updates. Sorry. That being said, I have no idea what format this is going to come out in. Certainly it won't be a detailed, descriptive narrative. More likely a stream of consciousness, story-telling style. Let's see where this goes. Ready? Ok, deep breath:

Wake up super early on a Saturday, hike into Ondangwa. Find a taxi to Tsumeb, wait three hours for it to leave. Get to Tsumeb, Rachel is running late. Wait for her in a cafe, drink iced coffee (iced coffee here=coffee+ice cream+chocolate sauce). Meet Rachel, get car, drive, pick up hikers, drive, meet Jenn in Omaruru, drive. Night at Jenn's place in Omajete. Dinner and playlist making, sleep. Up early, drive. Brandberg-Namibia's highest mountain. Hike to the famous "White Lady" rock painting. Lunch at the base (apples/carrots/peanut butter/crackers/cheese: our staples for this trip, also known as "delectables"). Drive. Spitzkoppe for the night. Hot shower. Climbing on rocks, watching the sunset with a bottle of wine. Bed. Wind so strong it literally blows our tent away when we get out of it. Breakfast, more climbing. Pictures. Drive. Swakopmund. Water. In the air. (My hair was not happy). Mexican, Margaritas, and dark beer. (My tummy was very happy). Drive. Drive. Drive. Terrible, long, washboard-y gravel road. Cross the Tropic of Capricorn. Stop in Solitare for some pie at a bakery. Almost passed the campground (luckily the American flag alerted us!) Swim in the pool (cold). Simultaneous sunset/moon rise from the deck. Breathtaking. Dinner, shower, bed. Up early. Drive to Soussevlei. Climb some dunes. Take a million photos. Explore the vleis. Ice cream treat on the way back, more dark beer. Wake up, happy birthday to me. Drive. Breakfast pie at the bakery again (called Moose McGregors, very fitting). Drive. Drive. Drive. Lunch in Walvis Bay. Jelly fish the size of a hubcap. Flamingos. More coffee/desserts (we dubbed my birthday the "day of desserts", but it's ok, because we had real salads with lettuces for lunch, so clearly it balances out, right?). Walk back to the car. Dead battery. Lucky for us a Botswanan middle school cricket team was in the parking lot and gave us a push. Drive to Swakop. Rare sunset on the surreal road with ocean on side and dunes on the other. Food shop, get some treats (pesto, gnocchi, and chocolate covered almonds!) Also Amarula. And ice cream. Crash on our GIANT bed. Decide we're too tired to cook and fully embrace the day of desserts by eating ice cream with Amarula while snuggling in bed and watching Stardust. Birthday=success. Lazy next morning. Drive to Henties Bay for the fish festival, which in true Namibian fashion had more meat than fish. More iced coffee. Browsed the vendors. Bought hummus! And more pesto. Back to Swakop. Pizza and more dark beer. Early(ish) bed. Wake up at 3:30, drive. Drive. Drive. Oh, did I say drive? 12 hours to Luderitz. (Bravo, Rachel, bravo). Arrive at the same time as Mariella, Taylor, Kristin and Emily. Check into the hostel. Search for dinner. We heard Luderitz is dead after the sun goes down but we're determined to find a dance party. Dinner at a quiet cafe, then we search for the Yacht Club which we heard was a popular hangout for the "young folks". Can't find it. Wait, guys, might it be that building that's shaped like a boat and has a Heineken sign out front? Yup. Drinks, meet some really cool locals who invite us to a braai the next night. More drinks, random pizza, dancing (yes, we managed to find dancing. Only us). Bed. Kolmanskope Ghost Town, lots of sand. In the houses. Like filling the houses. So cool. Back to the hostel. Braai is starting now, so we still have a few hours to nap first. Braai with new friends, more drinks, more dancing. Good times. Learned the "Cups" thing. Out till wee hours. Sleep. Till 1. Yeah..."Breakfast" at a cafe, more iced coffee (So. Much. Iced Coffee. I'll seriously miss this.) Drive to Diaz Point, aka "Imperialist Point". Ocean, catch on the beach with a crazy dog and my tennis ball (and they laughed at me for bringing it...), exploring the awesome campsite, where you can actually sleep in an old boat (really, Lonely Planet, you're not going to include this?!). Snacks at the cafe. Amazing sunset (and the dubbing of me as the photomonger in addition to being the keymonger, and the gatemonger). Early bed. More driving. Drive to Windhoek. Meet up with Bret for Indian food. Crash on his floor. Jenn and I run errands in Windhoek while Rachel picks up her friend from the airport. Drama. Where's Hannah? We don't know. Cancelled flight. Will we miss Etosha? Finally get Hannah, decided to try to make it to the gate before sunset. Perfect timing, 30 mins to spare. Lady at Etosha remembers me. Gnocci and pesto for dinner.  Meet up with Abby and co. Wine and watering hole. Lions! And rhinos! Bed. Drive through Etosha. So many animals. WE SAW A LEOPARD! And an adorable elephant family. And got THIS close to a rhino One more night. Early bed. One more watering hole. Narrating the lives of some animals. Drive to 'Kati. Zebros for lunch (duh!) Urbock (rare winter-only beer). Up to Onamutai. Home at last, but this vaca isn't over yet! Homemade hummus and some Dr. Who. Crash for the night. Off the the trade fair with Kristy! Busy, but fun. Lots of things to buy, but I manage to exercise some serious self control (until December at least...). Back home, then out for the night to Paulson's. So. Many. Men. Paulson let us stay behind the bar. (Thanks, dude!) Home, bed. The trio leave early the next morning and I attempt to prepare for school the following day.

Phew. It was a crazy, adventure-filled two weeks that I will never forget. Thanks for a fabulous time L^3 feat. Hannah Montana =) 
Here, enjoy some pics! To see the the full facebook album (even if you don't have facebook), click here.

"White Lady" whose actually a man...
Spitzkoppe

I swear I actually took this
Hanging out under the rock bridge.

An dessert oasis in the desert

Sunset on the deck.
Moonrise


Deadveli




Kolmanskope-- inside an abandoned house
Sunset over Diaz Point


LEOPARD!!
We were THAT close! And this boy was huge!

So may squees.



Peace out

Monday, August 5, 2013

The Reason Everyone Hates Math

It finally happened, WorldTeach put up a math focused module for me to do this month! Yeah, I know that's not actually exciting for anyone except me, but let me have my moment, ok? Modules are things that I have to do once a month for WT. Basically they're like the education assignments I used to do in college. They consist of a case study, an accompanying article, and reflection questions. Since all of the other volunteers teach English, most of the modules are very English focused. While they're not completely irrelevant to my classes (a lot of the broad themes and issues apply to all subjects), they're also not particularly helpful to my teaching experience (especially since my ed background means I've learned about/discussed a lot of the topics before). But, this month, WT finally released a math focused module, and I was excited to see what it would be about. The topic was "Balancing Factual, Procedural, and Conceptual Knowledge in Math" and the accompanying article basically put into words everything that's been rolling around in my brain about math education for the past four years. What it boils down to is that America (and many other countries) are not doing a good job at the balance of the three knowledge types. (Quick break down: factual knowledge--the quick recall of basic facts, i.e. multiplication tables, squares have four sides, 5 is bigger than 2 etc, the 'what'; procedural-- the steps you follow to solve a problem, the 'how'; conceptual-- the reasoning behind the procedure and the facts, the 'why'"). Reading the article helped me to either explain, or justify many of the frustrations I've encountered while teaching math both here in Namibia and back home.

The statement "I hate math, I'm not good at it" is one that has permeated our society. I hear it all the time, from people of all ages, all background, and all over the world. It is a statement that is said with a weird sort of pride, asserting that the speaker was a member of the every growing club of people who couldn't wait to graduate high school and leave math behind. It has gone so far that the New York Times published an op-ed where the author claimed that we should no longer require students to learn algebra, or really much math at all, since most people don't use those skills post-graduation. I hear this argument a lot, and it's one that actually causes my blood to boil, until I calm down and try to look at math education from an outsider's perspective. When I do, I start to see their point, and will conceded that math education the way it stands today is really not benefiting kids as much as it is hurting them. The fact is, we are completely failing at actually teaching kids how to do math. Instead, we teach them how to blindly follow steps. Not exactly the critical thinking skills we like to see in our citizens.

Math education has gone through a lot of phases throughout history. The ancient Greeks (think Euclid, Pythagoras, etc) focused mostly on concepts. Euclid's Elements- the standard for all geometry- hardly uses any numbers at all, it's all about the concepts and the proofs. The majority of math education in early America was factual, (the 'arithmetic' in the 'three R's'). Children learned how to count and how to do the basic operations. Slowly, we have moved to a system where the emphasis is on procedure-- how to follow steps to get a desired answer. The factual knowledge has still stuck around for the most part, but the focus has moved. Concepts, while still present occasionally, are often not really delved into.

The driving force for this push to procedure is, in my opinion, standardized tests. When a year's worth of learning comes down to the results of one test, the incentive is to teach procedure. Make sure the kids know the steps to follow to get the right answer, we don't care if they know why they're doing it. Because the standards for each year are so full of content, there is no time for exploration of concepts-- everything is watered down to "here are the steps: go." Students are so singularly focused on what the right answer is, that they stop caring about the why and the how, which are the most important parts of math.

Now, I'm not saying that we should go back to a Greek way of thinking and teach only concepts, that would be extremely impractical and ineffective for the world we live in today. However, we need to make conceptual knowledge a bigger part of math again. True understanding of math cannot exist without factual, procedural, and conceptual knowledge.

In the past few decades, factual knowledge has been on the decline. It's something I've noticed even since my days in elementary school. Raise your hand if you remember doing Mad Minutes in 4th grade to memorize your multiplication tables. My guess is that most people have their hand up. Would it surprise you then to learn that the majority of grade 8 and 9 students that I've taught needed a calculator to do 6*7? The memorization of facts has become demonized in a lot of education circles recently- earning the title "drill and kill". While I agree that memorizing facts is not the best way to learn, people always forget the old nutrition motto "everything in moderation". This is true of education as well. Sure, giving kids a history text book to memorize is not going to help them learn about the Revolutionary War, but there are some things that have to be memorized. Parts of speech, math facts, the date we signed the Declaration, the chemical make-up of water (H2O for anyone panicking). Here, memorization leads to instant recall which becomes very important when dealing with bigger problems. For example when our brains don't have to spend precious time and energy solving the basic problem, like 6*7, it can devote more time and energy to solving the equation. This not only makes math easier, but also less frustrating and therefore more enjoyable. So even though we live in a world where we have the ability to look up or calculate basic facts at our fingertips, a base of factual knowledge is still beneficial, and actual crucial, to deeper understand of more complex topics.

Procedure is important too, as much as it may seem that I'm hating on it. Having intimate conceptual knowledge won't do you any good if you don't know how to use it. Procedure is how math can be made accessible. It's human nature to want to have steps to follow to reach an answer. The problem comes with complete dependence on procedure- when procedure is taught with no explanation as to why the steps are followed the way they are. Teaching students to blindly follow steps is detrimental. What happens when they encounter a problem that requires a slight deviation from the steps? If students understand what the steps are trying to achieve, they can use their knowledge of the procedure to figure out what to do next. If they have just memorized the steps, they will get stuck and likely give up.

I saw on the internet a while back a picture with a statement "I forgot the Law of Cosines on a test, so I used right triangles to solve the problem another way". The picture was of her notebook, showing her work. It turned out that she didn't solve it 'another way', she actually derived the Law of Cosines for the particular problem she was doing. Replace all her numbers with variables and there's the proof. This girl used her intuition to get her out of a jam. Instead of giving up when she forgot a formula, she said, 'let's see what I can do with what I know'.  I was sad to realize how happy seeing this made me because, unfortunately, most students don't think like that-- if they forget a formula, they skip the problem. Most people have this idea of math being all about following a precise set of rules to arrive at a correct answer. Math is seen as rigid, calculated, and lacking all creativity, when in fact, creativity and imagination is crucial to math. There are a multitude of ways to arrive at every answer. Exploring these different ways, how they're different, why they all lead to the same solution, that's what math is. This is lost in today's education system. This is what happens when you teach the how and not the why.

This lack of conceptual learning also takes the excitement out of math. Math is a beautiful study of the patterns in nature. In math, things are even when it seems there is not real reason for them to be. When we're just told that they are- when concepts are just handed down as Mathematical Truths with no exploration- we take them for granted and we loose the beauty in their being. Let me give you an example from my own education. In Calculus, there's something called the Fundamental Theorem of Calculus. Sounds like a big deal, right? It is. What it says is that the integration of a function can be reversed by finding the derivative. Without getting too technical, they're sort of like opposites. This is a HUGE deal. Two things that seemingly shouldn't be related are actually very closely related. Now before learning about the FTC, we all anticipated it to be a big deal, but were very disappointed when we actually did learn it. Here's why: we were taught how to integrate first, and the way you do that is by finding the antiderivative (the opposite of the derivative). So in our heads, an antiderivative and an integral were the same thing by definition. So when we got the FTC that told us that the integral is actually equal to the antiderivative, we were all like "well yeah, duh". It wasn't until I was a TA for Calculus in college that I realized how important, amazing, beautiful, and well, cool, it is that the area under a curve (the integral) is the 'opposite' as the slope (the derivative) of the curve. Had we learned about the concepts and been told about the FTC first, and then discovered how to find an integral using the anti-derivative, I would have been fascinated, and it would have made a lot more sense.

Another thing that happens when concepts aren't fully understood is that things get misused. The most common place I see this is with the equals sign. The concept of equality- things being equivalent in value- has gotten lost with most students today. The equals sign has come to mean "put answer here". (In Namibia, this is exceptionally true. Learners use equals signs before writing the answer in any subject. If the directions say "Write 'I am eating breakfast' in the past tense." they will write " = 'I ate breakfast.'") This means that kids are constantly misusing equals signs, claiming things are equal when they are not. It also means that solving equations, when there is already something on the other side of the equals sign, gets them very confused. The typical way to teach the concept of equations is with the analogy of a balancing scale. I had another math teacher here tell me not to bother with the analogy because they just don't get it. When I asked what to use instead, he told me just to give them the steps.  "THIS IS WHY THEY DON'T GET IT!" I wanted to scream, "BECAUSE NO ONE TEACHES CONCEPTS!" Instead I bit my tongue, but I sort of wish I hadn't. Now I am subjected to paper after paper where equals signs are grossly misused and I'm not sure how to fix it because, once again, exams are in full swing and I am simply out of time. "Maybe next term" I think, and it gets added to the mile high pile of topics to address in the two months we have before the end of year exams.

I am scared for the mathematical futures of this generation. Already college students are fleeing the math and science fields in droves. (A recent headline I found grimly amusing: "Math, Science Popular Until Student's Realize They're Hard" (and no, that's not an Onion article...)) If we keep teaching math by drilling procedure and eschewing concepts, we will be doing a dangerous disservice to the future of our nation. We need to bring conceptual knowledge back into the classroom, but to do that, we need actual math teachers driving math education policy. We need to tell those writing the standards that we've had enough of mile-wide-but-inch-deep curricula and should instead be teaching fewer topics more in depth. This is the only way we will get back to teaching actual math.


For anyone interested in this topic check out the article "Is It True That Some People Just Can't Do Math?"

Friday, August 2, 2013

Educational Ramblings

A few days ago I had to say goodbye to one of my best friends whom I won't see for another 4.5 months. As hard as it was, I am so incredibly grateful that Kelly dropped the dough and came halfway across the world to visit me for a few weeks. Having her here was incredibly helpful in so many ways (mostly it was the cooking though, I'm just being honest  :p ).

For those of you who don't know, Kelly is a teacher too, so it goes without saying that there was quite a bit of teacher-talk going on. It was great to have her see and experience my school environment first hand so that I could process everything that I've been doing these past six months. I've said on multiple occasions how I am often surprised at the similarities between the Namibian and American education, and Kelly saw it too. At one point, we were discussing job interviews back home and I mentioned I was nervous because I knew people would be expecting me to have some sort of profound statement about my time teaching in Namibia, and I didn't feel like I had one. She looked at me and said "You don't think 'I went half way around the world and encountered all the same problems that we have here.' is a profound statement?" This is why I love her-- she can read my mind and make my thoughts sound much more intelligent than I think they are.

It's true though. The number of times each day that I think "just like America" is almost funny. Between syllabi that are too long for the time frame, a lack of critical thinking skills, lack of motivation, learners that are way behind their grade level, kids who are chronically absent, classes who'd rather chatter with each other than learn about equations, and exams breathing down everyone's necks, almost every conversation I have at school could be taken verbatim from conversations with colleagues back home. It's not only the bad that's shared though, all the things that I love about teaching are still here too. The light-bulb moments, coming up with a really good example that clicks and makes them laugh, sharing ideas with other teachers, those moments in class where you can't help but laugh, the friendly "good morning, miss" greetings (these are much more frequent and polite here!), marking exams and seeing that a learner who was struggling got a good grade, and waking up every morning knowing that it doesn't matter if yesterday's lesson bombed, it's a new day and maybe, just maybe, today will be the day you finally reach them.

The more I think about it, the more I see Kelly is absolutely right. That I am having nearly identical experiences here as my fellow first-year teachers back home is something that would surprise many people, myself included. I don't really know what my expectations for here were, but I can tell you that I certainly didn't expect that my life here would routinely feel so normal. (I am defining normal here as 'akin to my life at home', not as 'the opposite of strange'). It's not just school things either. Most of the time I spend here is spent doing things I would do at home. Sometimes I feel like I'm somehow cheating because my daily access to internet, electricity, and running water makes this not 'real Africa' but then I stop and think about how ridiculous that sounds. My housemates have the same access to utilities that I do, are they not 'real Africans'? What the hell is 'real Africa' anyway?

Americans tend to have this idea of what 'Africa' is, how it's so different from America, and somehow needs to be 'fixed'. In reality, Africa is a huge, diverse continent filled with people that are living the same basic human experience as the rest of us. Sure, there are some major differences, but there are fewer of them than people might think. I can't tell you what life in Africa is like, because I've only seen about 1% of it. I can tell you a little bit about what life in Namibia is like though. The majority of people go to work, care for their families, fix their houses, have friends, own cell phones, go shopping, drink, eat, enjoy movies and music, and go to school. Some (and the number is ever increasing) have internet, drive cars, and live in nice houses. Others are subsistence farmers who live without electricity or running water on traditional homesteads. In short, the lifestyles of Namibians are as diverse as the lifestyles of Americans.  Every stereotype I had about 'Africa' (and I like to think I had fewer than most) has been challenged. I have come to see Namibia for what it is: a young, proud, beautiful, capable country trying to put behind it's troubled, racist history, move forward, and improve. That doesn't sound to me like something that needs to be fixed- in fact, it sounds eerily familiar...

So next time I see you, please don't ask me how Africa was, because I won't be able to answer that. Instead, ask me about my learners, my school, my friends, my village, my new country. I'd be more than happy to share my stories.

I guess I have a profound statement after all. (But it might be a bit long for an interview...)

Friday, July 26, 2013

Take a Hike

Hike: A ride back to the village from town with whomever you can find that's willing to take you.

I'm going to take you on an adventure. This is a fairly typical Saturday hike back to the village after morning errands. Ready?

You get in the taxi and tell the driver to take you to Okamini, which someone told you is the nickname of the hike point that everyone knows. Of course the driver has no idea what you're saying. You struggle to explain where you mean until one of the other passengers takes pity on you and chuckles while telling the driver, "she means oka-meenie". Oh, ok. You pull up to the mini-market and haul all of your bags on your shoulder while fumbling for change for the taxi fare. The driver takes off and you amble awkwardly up to the tree outside the market that is the official hike point for your village.
"Wa uhala po" you say to no one in particular, butchering the local greeting.
"Eehh" someone says back, the typical response.
"Anyone going to Onamutai?" you ask the group gathered around the tree.
At this point, usually one of the small boys (any unmarried male) that runs one of the fruit carts will sympathetically tell you that no one is going.

You drop your bags because you know it'll probably be a long wait. You stand there awkwardly, hoping that one of the two bakkies you recognize will pull up soon. They don't. You keep your ears peeled, hoping to hear the word 'Onamutai' amongst all the unfamiliar Oshiwambo chatter, but you don't. People are staring. Some whisper (or shout) "oshilumbu!", the not-exactly-PC word for 'white person', at you. You ignore them.

After about 45 minutes, one of the fruit vendor guys tells you that "that tate is going to Onamutai" while pointing in the general direction of about 3 bakkies. You finally figure out which one and walk over to it.
"Wa uhala po, tate" you greet him "You are going to Onamutai?" "Eehh" "Can I come?" "Eehh" "Thank you."
No one seems to be getting in, so you continue standing there with all your stuff until someone tells you otherwise. Finally people begin piling in and you hop in the back. This is where the fun begins. At first, there are only a few people in the back and their assorted belongings, but this quickly changes. Foodstuffs are being added by the second: a rack of frozen fish, 3 10kg bags of mahangu flour, a giant plastic bag of snack bags, 10 cases of Tafel, grocery bags, and more people. 'We must be going soon, we can't possibly fit anymore in the back of this truck' you think to yourself each time something else is added. And each time, someone shuffles things around to add more while directing you in Oshiwambo. You give them your best apologetic look and try your best not to look like an idiot while everyone else performs this well choreographed dance of rearranging.

Finally, 45 minutes after you first climbed in the back of the truck, with the sun beating down on your pale Irish arms and the bag of cold food tucked somewhere under your legs, the driver gets in the truck and precariously makes his way onto the road. You assume he's taking the new gravel road, since that's the fastest way back, but to your chagrin, he turns down a side street and you know you'll be taking the alternate, longer, sand road home. At the end of the road, you pull into the bar where the driver stops for what he promises will be a "small beer". For a reason unbeknownst to you, he makes you get out of the truck to wait while the others stay in the back and then proceeds to order a 750mL Tafel which he shares with a friend. When he finishes, he motions for you to get back in. You do as you're told.

You take off down the sand road, stopping every 15 or so minutes to let other passengers off. You and the others dig around for a while to find everyone's belongings before setting off again. Eventually you are the last person left, and you realize that the driver probably lived in the last village, and only is taking you all the way to Onamutai because you're white. That also means he'll charge N$15 instead of N$10. He tells you to come sit in the front now that you're the only one left, and you gear up for what is likely to be an awkward last 10 minutes. Sure enough, you're only in the truck for about a minute before the driver, who is old enough to be your father, starts hitting on you. It starts out innocently enough: he asks where you're from, then responds that he's always wanted to go to America, but it soon turns into him asking to come back to America with you, and if you don't have a boyfriend, can he be your boyfriend? You reject his proposal several times and avoid answering his questions of "why not?" You know he's harmless, but it's still slightly uncomfortable. He drives you to your door (even though you never told him where you live-- everyone just knows where the white girl lives) and you thank him for the ride, pay him the fare, haul all of your belongings out of the bakkie once more, and go inside where you promptly collapse from exhaustion. All you did was grocery shop and go to the bank, but it's already 3:30 (despite leaving at 8AM) and you're exhausted. You decide it's time for a nap.

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Whirlwind

Dear reader,

My travel companions!
How are you? It's been awhile, huh? Whoops, sorry 'bout that. I fully intended on giving you the blow-by-blow of my month long trek around south western Africa, but it was a long time ago, the details are getting fuzzy, and the thought of sitting down to write six more posts has kept me from doing just that. So instead I'm going write one more highlights-only posts of my trip. I'm sure you'll hear more of the details later. So here goes nothing.




Poling on the Delta


Day 3: Maun- mokoro trip. Peaceful, beautiful, nice to be on water again. Went on a game walk and saw a heard of zebras. After lunch, I tried my hand at poling and actually wasn't terrible (Ben-- I think I could take you on at paddle boarding!). Oh, and we almost hit a hippo on the way back. Note to self: hippos are really big. Like *really* big.






Sunset cruise on the Zambezi River



Day 4: To Livingstone- super lucky travel day. Hardly had to wait for anything, and we also managed to negotiate the exact right price for a taxi, despite not knowing the exchange rate. Score one for the Americans.








Day 5: Vic Falls- Zambian side. Words can't describe how gorgeous it is, you'll just have to wait for pictures (and even those don't do it justice. You should probably just book your trip and see for yourself...) We got drenched, but it was totally worth it.








Day 6: Vic Falls- Zimbabwe side. is it possible for the falls to be even more spectacular? Yes, yes it is. Also, got to handle American money again, it was weird. Got photographed for a Zimbabwe tourism website at lunch, and I ate crocodile skewers (all for you, Sean).





(I now take a break from the highlights-only post to go into detail about the craziest thing I did all trip: jump into the Batoka Gorge.)The restaurant was in a lodge, and the lodge (like most in the area) had a booking center where you can book all sorts of adventures and outings. I had wanted to try a zipline sort of thing, so we went over to check it out. I must have been feeling pretty brave, because I ended up signing up for the gorge swing...hey, once in a lifetime, right? Basically, they drove us out to the gorge right below the falls, strapped me into a harness (actually two), brought me out to the edge of the platform and told me to jump. Ok, it was a little more organized than that, but that was the gist. The guy who was on the platform with me told me that after I jumped, I would free fall 70m in 3 seconds, then drop into a pendulum swing. He had heard me say earlier that I was a math teacher and right before nudging me off, he said "quick, what speed will you fall at?" Uh, what?! Sorry sir, I'm slightly preoccupied by the 200m jump I'm about to take, can you repeat that? He told me to think about on the way down and report back. Yeah, ok. Then he gave me a nudge. I had a split second of "oh shit. what did I just do?" before the rush took over and all I could do was grin the rest of the way down. There I was, swinging in a harness with the roaring waters of the Zambezi river swirling 3 meters below me, and what did I do? Start thinking about that math problem of course! Well it was much easier to think about at the bottom of the gorge than it was at the top, and I quickly calculated an average speed of 23.333... m/s (this, of course, is based off of 70m in 3 seconds, which isn't entirely accurate if you actually calculate the acceleration due to gravity, which I did as I was being pulled up...yes, I'm a nerd, I know). When I was safely back on the ground, I was greeted by the impressed looking faces of Matt and Jenn, who handed me a Hunter's. They know me well.

So this happened. (Major photo props to Matt!)

On the crossing back into Zambia, we encountered the worst negotiator in all of Africa. When hyperinflation had reached it's peak in 2009, you could find Zimbabwean bank notes in hilariously high amounts, such as 500 million dollars. Now, they've scraped the Zimbabwean dollar, and are using American currency, but you people still sell the old (now worthless) bank notes as souvenirs. After I refused to pay $10 for 5 worthless pieces of paper, this man tried to haggle with me, but I kept refusing. Finally he said he would just give me one if I wished him luck. Uh, ok! Then another guy on the bridge offered to trade me a one billion dollar note for my shirt. Um, no thanks.


Breakfast view of "the Smoke that Thunders"
from the deck at the lodge.
Day 7: to Ngepi Camp. Took the Intercape Bus back into Namibia. Lots of religious/super melodramatic, awful acted movies blaring right above my head. Awesome. Got to the camp pretty late, but the staff re-opened the bar for us, then we all sat around a campfire while a hippie in dreads played the guitar. Reminded me of my theatre days...

Day 8: Ngepi- basically we relaxed all day and just hung around the camp. It was exactly what we needed.

Day 9: More travel. We were hoping to make it to Grootfontein, but we got a slow start and had to wait awhile for a hike out of Divundu. We finally found one in the back of an open bakki, and the guy was booking it. My ears hurt a little... When we got to Rundu, we discovered it was too late in the day to get anything out, so we decided to stay the night. Makeshift dinner of cold focaccia bread from Spar and milkshakes from the bar for desert while we finally figured out what we all owed each other for money. Early bed.

Day 10: Back to Windhoek. I awoke early in the morning on our last day to the sound of birds chirping. I realized that I wasn't cold for the first night of the whole trip, and closed my eyes to sleep for another hour before we had to get up. As I started to fall back asleep, I hear a rustling noise in my tent. Uhhhh. I look down, and see a swarm of fire ants right under my sleeping bag. Yup. I had slept on an acacia thorn that had poked holes in the bottom of my tent, which provided the perfect doorway for a couple hundred fire ants to make their way in. Needless to say, I leaped out of my tent, trying (and failing) to make as little noise as possible. Pulled all my belongings out, spent a half hour brushing everything off, threw out the tent, and took a shower.

Combi to Windhoek. Back to Chameleon. Dinner at Joe's Beer Garden (too kitschy for my taste, super unimpressed with the beer selection), then early bed. Up at 4am for my 7am flight to Cape Town.

So that pretty much sums up the first half of my trip. Sorry for the super abridged version, but I promise to share the full version with everyone when I see you again. I'll post again soon about Cape Town and Etosha with mom.

Till then,
Jamie

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

10 Days, 4 Countries, 3000 Kilometers: Part 1

A little less than a month ago, I left Onamutai for my first long break of the year. My first stop was Windhoek for our Mid-Service training. It was so great to see everyone again and being back at BPU felt oddly like home. At this point, I don't remember anything particular about mid service that you would all be interested in, so I'll just skip to the beginning of my trek around Southern Africa with a fellow volunteer, Jenn, and her boyfriend who was visiting from home, Matt. As this was a long trip, it's going to take several posts, so be patient. And because it was so long ago, this may be a little rough, but if you're still with me, here goes nothing.

Day One: Leaving Namibia
Because we were all on a budget, our goal was to free hike as much as possible to save money (also, it's fun and half the adventure). So on our first day, we got up early and took a taxi to the hike point out of Windhoek heading for Gobabis, a town on the way to the Botswanian border. We tried for a few hours and a few different spots along the road, but all we got were offers to the airport. We ended up calling a driver that our friends had taken to the border the previous day, and we was willing to give us the same discounted price. The ride to the border was fairly uneventful and we arrived with no problems. We grabbed our bags and went into the customs office to fill out the first of many exit/entry forms. Once those were stamped and processed, we headed to the crossing. Having never crossed a border on foot, I was surprised at how long it was. Seriously, the no-man's land between Namibia and Botswana was about one kilometer. I came to find that this was fairly typical...

Anyway on the other side we filled out an identical form for entry and then went to find a ride. However, the border town, Mamuno, is not so much a town as simply the border post, so there really wasn't anywhere to go but the side of the road. Luckily it didn't take too long for us to flag someone down, despite the fact that there was almost no one around. We managed to get a semi-truck to stop for us and after convincing him that the three of us could squeeze in his behind-the-seat sleeping area, we were off! For those of you that haven't ridden in a semi-truck before, those things are MASSIVE. I felt like we were going to crush everything just because we were so high up! The cab itself was pretty big too- our driver even had a minifridge in the center console! Our driver was nice and was playing some sweet jams, so we had a really enjoyable first hike. He was headed to South Africa, so he dropped us off at an intersection where we would be heading opposite directions. It was a busy road though, so we only had to wait about 15 minutes before getting another hike.

We had been hoping to make it all the way to Maun, but it was already close to sun down, we decided not to risk it and just spend the night in Ghanzi, a very small town that reminded me a bit of a Boarder Planet on Firefly. We found a lodge that had camping, pitched our tents, and got a bite to eat at the restaurant (Jenn and I even splurged on chocolate milkshakes with Amarula-- we agree that this was one of the best decisions of the whole trip).


Day 2: Into the Delta
We got up fairly early hoping to catch a bus to Maun, but we had been given misinformation and the bus had already left. We once again headed to the side of the main road out of town to wait for a hike. After about a half hour of waiting, we started getting hungry, so we broke into our food supplies. Here we are, sitting on the side of a dusty road in the middle of nowhere, and Jenn is eating brie and fig jam on wheat crackers. I ate peanut butter with my fingers.

We finally got a hike (along with the other 3 people that had joined us in the 2+ hours we waited) in a covered bakkie. It was a bit long to go in a bakkie, but since it was covered and the road was paved, we decided to just go for it. We arrived in Maun no worse for the wear, but a little sore (Matt was introduced to his first "bakkie bruise") and hungry again. We hunted for a restaurant we had read about in Lonely Planet and found the gem of a cafe tucked away down a side street by the airport. Hilary's was excellent and if anyone is ever in Maun, Botswana, I highly recommend it. It was a cute little cafe with excellent homemade bread, sandwiches, soups, and- the best part- iced coffee! (well it was hot coffee that they put on ice for me...but still, my first one in Africa!)

After our delicious lunch, we stopped by the backpackers to drop off our gear and pitch our tents, then headed back into town to grocery shop for the next few days. We were planning to cook most of our meals while at the backpackers, so we quickly decided on a few easy dishes we could prepare and bought the goods. When we arrived back at the backpackers, we ran into Erika, Rachel, Abby, and Malin who had just gotten back from their overnight mokoro trip! Hearing their stories about it got us really excited for ours the next day.

We ended our first day in Maun lounging on seats next to the river, enjoying a beer from the bar while listing to Old Americana music and marveling at the fact that we had actually made it.

Photo credit: Matt Berg

Friday, April 12, 2013

Are We Really Talking About This?

Here's a list of the seemingly ridiculous things we spend way too much valuable staff meeting time discussing:
1. How we are going to celebrate staff birthdays-- seriously, we've discussed this on multiple occasions and have yet to come to a consensus.

2. Whether the school's Independence Day celebration should be the day before or the day after the actual Namibian Independence Day-- they're were some very strong opinions on the matter. Some thought we couldn't possibly do it before because we wouldn't know what the President was going to talk about in his speech, so we wouldn't know what the theme should be. Others thought that celebrating after the fact was completely pointless.

3. Why some of the backs of the staff chairs are coming unscrewed-- one idea thrown out there was that the cluster principles broke them during their meeting because they weren't accustomed to this type of chair. It was then reiterated the next day.

4. Knock-off time on the day before Easter Break-- because 12:30 isn't early enough since that's normal end-of-week-exam knock-off time, not day-before-holiday-exam knock-off time.

5. Use of study time-- there is much confusion about whether teachers are required to teach extra lessons during study even though the answer has clearly been given as 'no, but you can if you want to'.

6. Should teachers not on study duty be allowed to knock-off at 3:15-- while everyone wants to say yes, the problem arises that many teachers get rides with other teachers and don't want their ride leaving without them/don't want to wait around for the other teachers to finish study duty. Therefore the answer was set as no, everyone must stay till 4 to be fair, but everyone complained.

7. Where the exams we are proctoring (or, to use the British term, invigilating) will be placed for pick up-- they were on a bench outside the office, but too many people walked past them, so then they were put on the floor in the staff room. However that requires bending down to get them, which is unacceptable due to the energy required/restrictions offered by some staff member's outfit choices.

Here's how staff meetings usually work: the principal asks for an opinion on something, we sit in silence for awhile, he asks again, finally someone says something, everyone else disagrees but no one proposes an alternate solution, we sit in silence some more, principles reiterates previous point, everyone argues, we run out of time and table it till later. Lather, rinse, repeat. We need to learn the phrase "executive decision".

What doesn't get discussed at staff meetings:
1. What is actually supposed to happen during study?

2. Maybe the fact that the kids aren't doing well in English has to do with the fact that all communication outside the classroom (and quite a bit inside as well) is done in Oshikwanyama.

3. What is the schedule for after exams? Are we really doing lessons or this just a "let's not and say we did" situation? If we are, what schedule are we following? What period is this??? CAN SOMEONE JUST TELL ME WHAT I SHOULD BE DOING?!

4. What time we're knocking-off on Friday's during exams. Instead, I was expecting to see my grade 9 math class when a learner told me "No, Miss, we're going home. It's Friday so we're getting out at 12:30." Well no one told me...