Spitzkoppe: Revisited

One of my favorite places that I visited during my year in Namibia was Spitzkoppe. This rocky outcrop, formed by passing glaciers, is built for climbing and my jetty-loving soul was happy here.

Not to mention it's just absolutely, breathtakingly gorgeous. Anyway, when I saw that Abby and I would have a day in Windhoek to play around with, I instatnly googled to see how far of a drive Spitzkoppe would be. 3 hours = totally doable. Originally were were going to camp there overnight, but with the facts that Rachel wasn't feeling well (and wouldn't be coming with us), it is winter so the temperature at night gets pretty cold, and that Taylor would be coming early the next morning, we decided a day trip would be best. Also, our friend Freddy from the backpackers and another woman we met there, Alex, wanted to join us, so it all worked out pretty perfectly! On Tuesday morning, we piled into our rental car and took off for the drive west. It was great to catch up with Freddy some more, and to get to know Alex. She is a teacher from Germany who was volunteering for a year at a school in South Africa, so it was great getting to chat with her. After a fairly uneventful drive (and a bumpy reintroduction to gravel roads!) we spotted our destination.

Abby had not been before, and instantly realized why it was one of my favorite places. We grabbed and map and Freddy and I conferred about where to take them first. We didn't have time (or the skills/equiptment) to hike Grosse Spitzkoppe, the highest of the peaks, but we had a blast scrambling up the smaller (but still plenty high) outcrops. We went to the rock bridge and I even found the exact spot I had taken my favorite picture 3 years earlier (the one that currently serves as both my desktop and phone wallpapers). Having Freddy along meant that we also got to see some things that I hadn't seen the first time, including some acient rock paintings and a sort of cave formed by some of the rocks.

It is really impossible for me to describe just how amazing this place is, so I'm just going to let you look at pictures, although even they don't do it justice.

Rock paintings

Freddy for scale

About to enter the cave

A tree sprouting from the underside of the rock

Another breathtaking sunset

Basically, eveyone should just go and see it for themselves. I promise you won't be disappointed!

We drove back under a blanket of stars and I marveled how even 20 miles out of Windhoek, the sky was still so black that you could clearly see the Milky Way.

The next morning Abby, Rachel, and I met up with Taylor for breakfast. She had just come in from the north after visiting her host brother who is starting University soon. It was so surreal to all be hanging out in Windhoek again. We did some craft shopping and found some good bargins. Later we went for sunset drinks at the rooftop bar at the Hilton, which offers some amazing views of the city. Then we had dinner at a restaurant that is trying for an American steakhouse vibe. We walked in to country music blaring and a bar with a variety of beer on tap (a rarity in Namibia). We met up with some pilots that Rachel knew and spent the night laughing with good food, good beer, and new friends.

Up next: my return to the village.

Our Epic Return

The flight back to Windhoek was incredibly surreal. We were both extremely excited to go back to the country that we called home for a year, but also a little anxious as to what would await us there. It was funny to contrast the feelings of landing at the airport this time compared to the first time. In 2013, we were nervous, scared, and excited--not entirely sure what we had gotten ourselves into. Seeing the barren desert surrounding us had many of us wondering if we had made the right choice. This time though, Abby and I couldn't help but do a dance of excitement on the tarmac, squealing "we're back, we're back, we're back!" to the confusion of the other passengers I'm sure. We got our bags and rented our car. When the guy showed us which one was ours, we were very pleased at the souped up sporty car that awaited us. After driving very small, very temperamental cars for 6 months, Abby was excited to have something with a little more pickup and that shifted smoother than the others. We knew it would make a huge difference on the gravel roads.

We drove into Windhoek and tried to navigate to our friend Rachel's flat. We had an address that I had put into Google maps, but when we arrived, we weren't sure we had found the right place. Neither of us had internet access on our phones. so we had to use an old fashioned map (gasp!) to make sure we were at least on the right street. After confirming that, we drove up and down it looking for the right number. We found it and approached the gate, only to realize we didn't know what flat she was in. Wow, we really hadn't thought this thing through. We ended up buzzing the manager's flat and his son told us where were could find Rachel. We found her place and then commenced yet another round of squealing, along with lots of hugs. We had a brief catch up session before Rachel had to go tutor, so Abby and I decided to test our memory of Windhoek and head over the mall to get somethings that we needed. We made it their easily and felt an overwhelming sense of familiarity as we walked in. After wandering around feeling nostalgic for a bit, we got the things we needed and headed back to Rachel's where we enjoyed a glass of wine on her balcony that has an amazing view of the city. The night wasn't over yet however, as Rachel informed us that our friends at the backpacker's that was our home away from home whenever we were in Windhoek were having a braii, and the best part was they didn't realize we were in town! After getting some meat at the store, we drove over. Man, driving through that gate really did feel like coming home. Another round of very surprised hugs awaited us inside and got our braii on while reminiscing about our year in Namibia. It was good to be back.

Next up-- Spitzkoppe: Revisited

Adventures in Polokwane

On Friday I had my first full day in Polokwane. We woke up and after a relaxing morning, we went to her school for their last day of the term. Because all the exams were over, it was only teachers at the school, and people were just finishing up grading. Abby gave me a tour of her school and though I saw many similarities between her school and my school in Onamutai, here school was definitely bigger and had slightly more resources. I met with some of her colleagues, and then they had a staff meeting. Abby and I could only smile as I got to experience a South African staff meeting, which bore remarkable similarity to the many staff meetings I had in Onamutai. In fact, if anyone remembers by previous blog post on the matter (Are We Really Talking About This?) the staff birthday issue was discussed here as well, with much of the same results. When the meeting was finished, we joined some of her colleagues at a local restaurant for a braii. I don't think it would be possible to overstate the amount of happiness I felt having my first Hunter's and boerwors in almost 3 years. Seriously, nothing could stop my grinning.

A gorgeous white tiger

Cubs!!

The next morning we got up early and along with Abby's roommate Izora and her boyfriend Jacob that was also visiting, we drove out to a town called Tzaneen where we went on an interactive animal walk.

Not only did we get to see many animals, but we actually got to go inside the cages and pet them. We saw monkeys, a variety of cats, meerkats, an anteater-ish looking animal that was very cute, tigers, a leopard, and lions. Yes, I got to pet lions. Both adult lions and two adorable little cubs. Their fur is super thick and I definitely felt a kinship with them :p It was an amazing experience and I was so lucky to have gotten to do it.

Later that evening we had a party for the other of Abby's roommates, Lizzy, who was going to be going back to the US after three years as a PeaceCorps volunteer. A few other volunteers were there, (including one who had gone to Stonehill in the class below me--small world!) as well as many of their South African friends. We had a great time braiing into the night while playing Cards Against Humanity, arguing about American politics, and taking periodic dance break. I was really happy to see the nice group that Abby has found in her new home.

The next morning we piled back into a car with Izora and |Jacob, this time with all our luggage, for the drive back to Joberg. After dropping our stuff at the backpackers, we ventured down the street to the Main Street Market. Inside awaited a cornucopia of food stalls representing every type of food you could imagine. After taking a few laps to check it all out, our mouths watering the whole time, we finally let our stomachs do the talking and got some (read: way too much) food. Of course we saved room for gelato though!
After stuffing our faces, Abby and I walked around this cute little shopping center made out of old shipping containers. Most of the things in this area were too expensive for our liking, but it was fund to window shop. Later that evening we went to see a comedy show featuring a handful of local comics. I was a little unsure about going because I was tired, and wasn't sure how many of the jokes I would understand. I'm glad we went though, because the show was hilarious. Of course there were some things that went over our head, but we were falling out of our chairs laughing so hard for most of it. And of course we got picked on on fair amount, being some of the only white faces in a very small crowd. but it was all in good fun and we were laughing right along with everyone else. When it was over, we made our way back to the hostel to get a good night sleep for our big day the next day: Jame and Jam return to |Namibia!

Getting There

Neroberg Tram

So, I'm about a week late with the posts here. As you can imagine, it's been a hectic journey. My flight took me via Frankfurt, Germany where I had a 9 hour layover. Luckily for me though, I have a friend who lives near the airport and offered to show me around her city of Weisbaden instead! After dropping my bags at her flat and changing out of my plane clothes, she took me to Neroberg hill where there is a water powered tram that goes up to the top. We rode that up and got some amazing views of the city, including a vineyard where they grow grapes for Riesling.

View from the top

 

A church in town

We walked around the top a bit, then took the tram back down and drove into to town. Kaiser used to frequent, and some of the city's famous hot springs.
We got lunch in town at an Italian place that has home made pasta and sauces to order and let me tell you, their pesto was delicious! We walked a little more and then drove to see the US army base that is the headquarters of US Army Europe . I had heard a fair amount about these bases from my mom and aunts/uncles and it was neat to see one up close. We then drove back to Christine's flat relaxed for a bit, watching the Euro Cup, before heading back out to the airport.

Though flight was a bit long, I got lucky and had an empty seat next to me so I could stretch out a bit. I managed to get a decent sleep, and was ready when Abby met me at the airport early the following morning. For those who don't know, Abby was a WorldTeach volunteer with me who is now teaching on a Fullbright in South Africa. Because she is awesome, she drove to the airport to get me, and we then drove the three hours from Johannesburg to her house in Polokwane, in the Limpopo province. It was interesting to see her town, because in many ways it reminded me of the larger towns in Namibia. She lives in a house with two other American volunteers and has frequently commented how similar her out-of-school life is to living in America. She has hot water, a washer and dryer, wifi, and her roommate even has a dog! After a quick trip to the grocery store, we spent the remainder of the night hanging out with her roommates (after I took a very long nap haha).

Next up: Petting lions in Tzaneen!

I'm Baaaack!!!

Hey there!
So, the day I've been thinking about since December 12th 2013 is here: I'm going back to Namibia! Not for a year, just for a visit, but I'm over the moon about it! I'm so excited to be back in my home away from home and see the people who became my second family and took care of me for a year. As an added bonus, I will also get to see three WorldTeach volunteers and a friend in Germany who is going to keep me company on my 9 hour layover. :)

I thought I would resurrect this blog as a way to keep my friends ann family at home updated on my new round of adventures, and also as a place for me to reflect on what it's like being back to visit in a place I called home three years ago.

So if you're reading this, I hope you enjoy my musings and my stories. More to come soon.

Much love,
Jamie

Hello, Oshili Nawa

With only a few days left in Namibia, I decided it was time to say ohsili nawa (goodbye) to all the things I will miss (as well as some things that I will not) and hello to the things that I am looking forward to seeing/having/experiencing again (and those that I am not). So here goes.

Oshili nawa Onamutai, my learners, my colleagues. Oshili nawa sand, open spaces, bakkie rides, sun, heat, cold showers, laundry by hand, Oshikandela, braais, boerwors, Salitcrax, shebeens, open markets, Hunters, Urbock, mango juice, cheap mangos, cheap clothes,  Zebros, Oshiwambo, kapana, the smell of cooking meat permeating the air, taxis, gravel roads, memes in their pink dresses, tates with their walking sticks, "eehh", mahangu porridge, Southern hemisphere stars, BPU, pilots,  being the only white person in sight, catcalls, combis, dunes, giraffes, elephants, zebras, springbok (both the animal and the shot...),TK, Paulson, Kristy, Iimene, Vincent, Dina, Jan, Johnny, the girls, cows, donkeys, goats, pigs everywhere, my house, a 30 second commute, classrooms with windows, outdoor hallways, being a foreigner, and traveling. Oshili nawa to my home for the past year, I will be back-- nothing can keep me away forever.

Hello hot showers, washing machines, snow, cold air, driving, Chipotle, Chinese food, beef stew, real salads, fast internet, my bed, Boston, the ocean, the lake, iced coffee, coffee shops, Dunkins, take out pizza, American education, hearing English, too many choices, fresh milk, Cabin Fever, Woodchuck, Bacardi, apple cider, maple syrup, Target, the smell of winter, foliage, skiing, TV, recycling, calling kids 'students', fast paced life, sarcasm, and of course Mom, Dad, Ben, Kelly, Pam, Alli, friends and family all over.


Check back soon for one last post of assorted pictures (when I have decent internet again). Until then, Happy Holidays everyone, and I hope to see you when I'm stateside. =)

Weddings and Final Farewells

My last few days in the village were a whirlwind of packing, goodbyes, and mixed emotions. Saying goodbye to the people and the places in Onamutai was one of the hardest things I've ever done. On Friday the learners came to pick up their reports. Seeing the joy in the faces of those select few lucky (and hard-working) enough to earn the requisite points to be promoted to the next grade made every stressful day this year worth it. Yet looking into their faces as we said goodbye, knowing full well that it would likely be the last time I would do so, simply broke my heart.

After school, Kristy and I took one last walk through the village, visiting our favorite market and shebeen and taking pictures. Most of the learners were gathered at the church for some event, and as they came up to hug me goodbye one by one, I wanted nothing more than to spend a few hours hanging out at the church with them. Instead, we went out to Omupanda with the guys for one more night out, one more bakkie ride, some hugs goodbye and promises for an August reunion in Boston. 

Saturday morning I woke up early and went to a wedding with Kristy and TK. We arrived at the homestead where people were milling about, busy with wedding preparations. As TK headed out to attend the ceremony, the women in the family stayed behind to do all the cooking. Never in my life had I seen so much food in one place. Imagine the largest amount of meat you can picture in one place and then quadruple it, and that's just the meat. There were also 3 huge washing basins full of pasta, the largest plastic storage container filled with potatoes, bowls and bowls and bowls of vegetables, 40 kilograms of mayonnaise, and enough Tafel Lager to satisfy and army. Amid the chaos, I managed to find some jobs to keep me busy and helped out by chopping veggies, assembling beef kabobs, and making green salad (because only an American could be in charge of making a non-mayonnaise based salad...). By the time the wedding party returned, the food was ready and the music was bumpin. I spent the night dancing, eating, and talking with new friends. I was even distracted enough to forget for a few hours that I was leaving the next day. But, the end the night came and we returned to the house, driving into the thunderstorm rolling in across the desert. 

In the morning, we woke up, finished packing up my things and piled into TK's truck to drive into town. I said a tearful goodbye to Kristy, TK, and the north, and was one my way to Windhoek.

I think I am still in a bit of denial about the fact that I am leaving tomorrow. As excited as I am to see everyone back home, I can't say that I am ready to go. Namibia has truly become my home over the last year and I will definitely be leaving a large piece of my heart behind. I hope that someday I will be fortunate enough to return for a visit, but until then, I will have to be satisfied with facebook contact, a million happy memories, and pictures of my learners' smiling faces looking down at me from my classroom wall. 

Looking forward to seeing you all soon. Until then, enjoy a few photos from my last days in Namibia.

Last braai at my farewell party.

Two of my favorite grade 9s that came to visit.

Schoolyard.

View from my stoop.

The market.

Fresh Ideas Bar-- a favorite shebeen.

I'm going to miss these African sunsets.

Last visit to Omupanda.

Just a fraction of the meat at the wedding.

Gift line for the happy couple.

TK and I at the wedding. Doesn't he look sharp
in that yellow jacket?